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How Pakistan fell in love with sushi

(6 months ago)
Sanam Maher
PakistanWorldSouth and central AsiaFoodFood & drink industry

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TL;DR: Key points with love ❤️

The article traces the unexpected rise in popularity of sushi in Pakistan, from its introduction as an expensive novelty at Karachi's Fujiyama restaurant in 1986 to its current ubiquity in fine dining and pan-Asian establishments. It highlights the entrepreneurial spirit of the Avari family and the cultural adaptation of sushi to Pakistani tastes.

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  1. 1 1929: Dinshaw Avari moved to Karachi.
  2. 2 1945: Dinshaw bought Bristol Hotel.
  3. 3 1947: India partitioned; Dinshaw imagined waterfront resort hotel.
  4. 4 1962: 007 nightclub opened at Beach Luxury Hotel.
  5. 5 April 1985: Avari Towers opened in Karachi.
  6. 6 1986: Byram Avari visited Benihana in Hawaii; Byram traveled to Dubai, Singapore, Hong Kong for research; Fujiyama opened in December (invitation-only).
  7. 7 January 1987: Fujiyama opened to the public.
  8. 8 2001: Chef June Gallo joined Sakura.
  9. 9 2010-2022: 200 hectares of mangroves lost in Karachi.
  10. 10 2017: Mustafa Sardar at Le Cordon Bleu in London.
  11. 11 2021: Anum and Mustafa Karim opened Fishop.
  12. 12 May 2022: Pakistan government attempted ban on luxury imports; Izakaya opened.
  13. 13 2023: Fishop closed; Byram Avari passed away.
  14. 14 2024: Fujiyama reopened after renovation.
  • Sushi became a status symbol and then a widely consumed food in Pakistan
  • It led to the opening of many Japanese and pan-Asian restaurants
  • It highlighted the disconnect between Karachiites and their local seafood
  • It spurred innovation in adapting foreign cuisine to local tastes
What: The article details the historical and cultural journey of sushi's increasing popularity in Pakistan, from its initial introduction as a luxury item to its current widespread availability and adaptation to local tastes.
When: April 1985 (Avari Towers opened); December 1986 (Fujiyama opened); January 1987 (Fujiyama opened to public); 1986 (Byram Avari in Hawaii); 1945 (Dinshaw bought Bristol Hotel); 1947 (India partitioned); 1962 (007 nightclub opened); 2001 (Chef June Gallo joined Sakura); May 2022 (government attempted import ban); 2021 (Anum and Mustafa Karim opened Fishop); 2023 (Fishop closed); 2022 (Izakaya opened); 2017 (Mustafa Sardar at Le Cordon Bleu); 2010-2022 (mangrove loss); 2023 (Byram Avari passed away); 2024 (Fujiyama reopened).
Where: Pakistan (Karachi, Lahore, Islamabad), Hawaii (US), Dubai (UAE), Singapore, Hong Kong, London (UK), Antwerp (Belgium), Ibrahim Hyderi (Karachi), Clifton Beach (Karachi), Okinawa (Japan).
Why: Sushi's success in Pakistan is attributed to the Avari family's entrepreneurial vision, its initial positioning as a status symbol for the elite, and its subsequent adaptation by chefs to local palates (e.g., adding chilli, sugar).
How: Byram Avari was inspired by a Japanese restaurant in Hawaii, then traveled to Asia to research. He hired a Japanese chef, Keni Hara, and trained local staff. Restaurants like Sakura and Izakaya further adapted and popularized sushi, making it accessible at various price points or as an exclusive experience.

The article traces the unexpected rise in popularity of sushi in Pakistan, from its introduction as an expensive novelty at Karachi's Fujiyama restaurant in 1986 to its current ubiquity in fine dining and pan-Asian establishments. It highlights the entrepreneurial spirit of the Avari family and the cultural adaptation of sushi to Pakistani tastes.